Sunday, August 31, 2014

Volunteering in the east (Denali National Park entrance campus)

Matthew and I have been overwhelmed by this inspiring experience!  Not only have we been able to genuinely support the interpretive staff, we’ve been encouraged to create our own chats/service opportunities.  Hmmm, maybe I should explain.  Generally, when we’ve volunteered, we have done the mundane.  No, not complaining, that is typical, and we are happy to help in any way.  The people we’ve worked with here, however, have provided opportunities for us to use our skills and for us to learn and apply new knowledge in unique ways.  As our volunteer coordinator, Kathleen, insists, we should enjoy volunteering as well as provide support for the National Park.  Well, to-that-end, it has been a beyond-successful volunteer experience!
Denali Visitor center (DVC)
Striding towards the camera--Ranger Ellen in plain clothes!

Work area for the rangers--
Clara, Lauren, and Jessica

The front desk with Ranger Bill and Diane
Matthew has put together a bench-chat.  He invites people to match pictures of “Denali animals” with animal track casts, skulls, scat, and/or pelts.  Additionally, he provides the ASL signs for the animals.
I have pictures in the Toklat entry of Matthew doing his chat.  He also did this chat in Livestream for the park.
(Click on the link above--it is in the Archived Events.  Just look for Matthew's picture.)

We also set-up a prop table with a wolf pelt, scat, skull, and track cast.  We arrange the props in a busy area of the visitors’ campus, invite people to touch the pelt etc., and to talk about wolves.  (“Thank you!” to all of the rangers who taught us about the wolves, so we could share factual/interesting information with the visitors!)
Pelts in the prop room

antlers, skulls, horns...in the prop room

Our favorite prop--scat!


The best part of volunteering—the rangers and the other park staff (DVC and Toklat)!  I was impressed by their knowledge, genuine care and love of the environment, the joy they expressed while sharing this passion, and the friendships they extended to Matthew and me.  We have definitely gained more than we’ve given.  Thank you!
Unfortunately, I did not take a group shot of the rangers at DVC.  I should have taken one at the delicious farewell chips and dips lunch--YUM!  (Fresh guacamole too!) No camera...dingle dorf!
However, since Matthew and I intend to come back next year, we will focus on people photos then.  SMILES!
The photo I did take--
Mary, our favorite bus driver, and
an AWESOME person!
Autumn is here!  It has been in the mid-30s/lower 40s for the last few days, and the foliage is beautiful! Matthew and I went out to Savage River this morning.  We did see a few of the bull moose (no photos, sorry) and one bear on the road.
Good for hyper-vigilance; Not good for traffic!
Poor guy...thankfully, he or she did make it safely off the road.
Termination dust on the mountain tops and vibrant autumn colors...
winter is on the way!  
This is my favorite time of the year....
One more time because it "bears" (ha ha!) repeating.  Matthew and I have had a wonderful time with everyone at Denali.  Thank you again for the sharing and caring!
One last photo of Matt; Cinnamon snapped it last night.  I think his smile says it all--
Matthew at the Nenana River



Mount Denali (Mount McKinley)

I cannot say enough about this amazing mountain!  It is difficult to explain the impossible grandeur and magnitude of its presence…so, here are some of my favorite photos. No, they do not do Denali justice, but they are all I have to offer in lieu of the real thing…



Denali in clouds
Totally without clouds!


My favorite mountain and my favorite young man!

The animals from mile 53 (Toklat) to 66 (Eielson)

Matthew and I have seen and watched so many bear, caribou, moose, and ground squirrels on our way to and from work. 
What an amazing national park!
Grizzly--yeah, no duh! 
Caribou
Bull moose in the willows
grizzly--fall is sneaking up on us... 
Grizzly
Arctic ground squirrel at EVC
An alpha female wolf took down a caribou on her own!
Photo by Diane Kirkendall
Grizzly versus ground squirrel--the first video is graphic!  The order in which to watch them--
3rd, 1st, and then the 2nd.  The sounds in the background--Diane snapping photos and the flashers on the government vehicle.
We saw this bear, in the morning, on our way to work at Eielson.  No coffee needed that day!


Saturday, August 30, 2014

Toklat and Eielson

Most of our work experience has been at the Toklat Visitors’ Center (the tent) and Eielson Visitors’ Center (EVC). (No roving--smiles.)  At both, Matthew and I “open” and “close”—set-up props, hoist and lower the flag, and fill-out the information boards.  (With support from the other rangers!  SMILES!) After that, it is answering visitors’ questions, sharing information (trails, flora and fauna info, ASL signs for Denali animals, and history), monitoring for bear, and crowd-control.  While we have been here, we’ve had 5 bear walk through the visitor areas!  Happily, there have been no “issues”.  Some people haven’t wanted to “move away” from the bear, but most of the visitors readily complied with rangers’ directions and “hairy eyeball” glares.
Eielson Visitor Center (EVC)

Toklat Tent (the tent)
Caribou boy!

Bear at the tent

Matt (the brat) helping to dig the fire pit.
















Matt teaching the sign for "sheep" inside the tent

Successfully "passed the sign 'test'


Inside EVC from behind the information desk











Matthew teaching the signs for the "Big 5" Denali animals--bear, moose, caribou, wolf, and sheep.  He uses the skulls for "hints".

 Kantishna Experience


On one of our days off, we took a bus tour to Kantishna.  FUN!  We learned about Fanny Quigley, ate blue berries and enjoyed the ride to the "end of the road"

blue berries

Matthew picking blue berries

Matt at the "end of the road"

Fanny Quigley's cabin




















Dinosaur track arrives
The helicopter brings it in...
Dinosaur track--luckily, the crack didn't hurt it.










The work here has been WONDERFUL.  However, the people at Toklat are even more so!  Matthew and I have been gifted to be a part of everyones' lives here.  As with the rangers in the front country (Denali Visitor Center), these guys are extraordinary!  Thank you so much for EVERYTHING you shared--information, passion for the wilderness, support, and friendship.  
Matt and Diane
Brien, Alina, Jeanette, Joseph, Dan, Katie, Bob, Kate, and Tina
Jakara, Susan, and Junior
The threw us a great farewell potluck!
This is quite the musical crew too!  Joseph and Dan on the acoustic guitars and Brien on the banjo.   Joseph wrote the first song featured--Galloping Glaciers.   He thinks the second song is titled South on Route 29, but isn't certain.  If anyone knows, please tell me.

Friday, August 29, 2014

Our new venue in Denali--Toklat!

The late night drive out was uneventful, but beautiful—
Sun on the mountains...
Denali in the background
Polychrome Pass--gorgeous colors! 
The next day, our first day, the sun was shinning and all was right with the world!
(I was, however, keeping in mind the warning that Toklat was “wild”; we needed to be additionally cautious in the camp.)
We started our morning by doing laundry and cleaning the van.  (Matt and I would have orientation the next day.)  The first number of trips—bathroom, laundry, recreation center—Matthew and I went together.  Well, you know Matt...After the third “toilet-run”, I told him to finish and come home on his own.  I reminded him to “make noise” coming back to the van.  When he arrived, Matt reported that he clapped his hands while jogging home.  I applauded his noise making, but we had a serious talk about how “jogging” could trigger a bear’s predatory instinct to chase.  So, the next time we went up the road to fold laundry, we went together.
We were walking on the right side of the road; this is just an around-the-camp gravel road.  I paused when I heard a munching sound.  After I located the maker of the sound, I did two things simultaneously.  I exclaimed, “Oh shit, a bear!” and grabbed Matthew along side of me.  Unfortunately, the expletive caught the juvenile bear’s attention and from less than 3 yards away, he acknowledged our presence.  I told Matt to “get big”—meaning, wave your arms.  The bear, obviously disgusted by our display, returned to munching on horsetail.  Matthew and I backed away slowly.  (Okay, I thought it was slowly, but even if it wasn’t, the bear was done with us.)
After folding the clothes, we wisely chose to take a path, versus the road, home.  At the end of the path and a bit south, is another bathroom.  Matthew and I saw two rangers at the back of the building.  Jeanette (one of the rangers), loudly asked us if we saw the bear.  Still strung-out on adrenaline, I loudly launch into, “Yeah, it was right up there at…” Jeanette, intelligently interrupted, “No, THAT bear!”  Damn, she meant the large adult bear at the opposite corner of the building (a mere 20 yards away)!  So again, I exclaimed, “Oh shit, a bear!”  I was again awarded with acknowledgement.  This time, the bear gave me the stink-eye.  (Yes, Jeanette agrees; it was the “stink-eye”.  She had gotten it too!) Matthew and I “got big” and slowly backed away.  When we FINALLY got back to the van, I realized I had learned a few things. 
1.     I won’t exclaim when I see a bear.  (I don’t think they like to be yelled at.  They may not like to be sworn at either—just a guess.) 
2.     Matthew won’t be walking anywhere alone. 
3.     I don’t like seeing a bear when I am on foot. 
4.     They really are BIG. 
5.     The recommended 300-yard distance between you and a bear isn’t far enough.
Oh, and I am thankful the camp has good laundry facilities.


I told Jakara, another interpretive ranger here, our story.   Her comment, “Welcome to Toklat!”  Damn, this really will be an adventure!

Barrow, Alaska

When we arrived at 10:30 a.m., the temp was a balmy 31 degrees.  Fortunately, Elizabeth had warned us to take winter-gear.  We wore down coats, hats, and gloves; it was still cold!  (Yes, I said it—cold!)
We dropped our things at the hotel (not the outerwear) and jumped-in the van for the Tundra Tour.  Heck, let me just show you what we saw—
Our guide, Billy
Jaw bone of a bowhead whale in the bone yard

The duck hunting village--
note the baleen and driftwood palm tree!

HIGH cost of spam!



Matt's pop tarts--WOW!

Even jello was more than my budget could afford!


Snowy arctic owl--beautiful!
Yes, yes they do!











Inupiat Eskimo dancers at the Heritage center in the middle of Barrow.

The next day, we wandered around town (population-4500) and went on a great impromptu tour with Will.  He drove us up to Point Barrow (the furthest point north).  Unfortunately, there were no polar bears.  Well, maybe that wasn’t a negative as the vehicle we were in could barely push 5-10 mph with deflated tires on a shifting pebble track.  I am certain any bear could out-run us, and well, win the “battle”.  Will assured us, however, that the sound of a motor engine would frighten them away.  (Now, I ask you—What happens if you cannot restart the jeep?)  Later, during the tour, he invited us to try some muktuk from his personal stash.  Yes, Matthew tried it.  (What won’t this boy eat?!)
Barrow

Barrow homes
The farthest north single family residence in the U.S.A.
Will's home (our tour guide)
Matthew touching the Arctic Ocean

The famous blue and yellow astroturf football field

Local school bus
Muktuk--skin and blubber of a bowhead whale...yum?

After 83 days of constant sunlight, Barrow has a "sunset".
This was taken at midnight. 
Our hotel-- Top of The World Hotel




This is definitely a town to visit!  Next time, we will stay longer.  The people were wonderful and there are clearly more “secrets” and adventures to find!